Master Han picks wild tea trees in the Qianjiazhai region of the Mount Ailao National Forest Preserve, Yunnan. He takes the utmost care to “let the leaves speak,” pressing each batch of leaves differently to bring out their best, either as a looseleaf sheng, a black tea or a pressed cake or ball of tea.

He works his own land, but is the founding member of the Zhengyuan Dongsa farmers cooperative. The cooperative does not pool tea for bulk selling, but rather invests in equipment together so that each farmer can produce their own distinct products with a greater degree of ownership.

Master Han is excited to share his fresh 2014 spring harvest pu’er. This 500g brick is a unique opportunity to taste the pure, bright flavor notes of a young tea that is clean, smooth and absolutely ready to drink.

The aroma is that of grape, orchid and honey- almost more similar to an oolong than a pu’er. The first steepings are astoundingly sweet. The cakey and buttery quality of the tea evokes a red velvet cupcake with buttercream frosting. The crisp florals that come through in the aftertaste are more like Bai Mudan white tea than pu’er.

Later steepings open up immensely, with the initial sweetness transforming into a full-bodied woody brew with tingling textural notes of licorice root, and star anise. Fruity apricot flavor engages the sides of the palate, while nutty creamy amaretto flavor dominates the aftertaste.

This is a confident and commanding sheng pu’er that is clearly on the track to further development. The way this tea changes over multiple steepings reveals an intense complexity that is ready to come out further with age. Take the opportunity to invest in a 500g brick of this tea and watch it change over time.

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5 Teas in Paul Gale's Cupboard

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